What is San Miguel de Allende?

Her head nestled into his shoulder.  His one hand lightly held her on the back, his other hand lightly gripped hers.   1,2   3,4,5    6,7, 8.   With an accordion leading, the rest of the band filled in the rhythm, the melody and tempo for a slowly intertwining Tango.  The two dancers were members of the "Forever Tango" dance troupe on their way to Argentina and they had stopped off in SMA to visit family and friends on their way back from a performance in Japan.  The cafe LaFragua, one of the oldest bars in town, was the scene. Lita's tango class had been invited to attend this special eventing.  The crowd was small but very appreciative at the beauty of the two dancers. The cafe has an open air inter courtyard surrounded by Greek columns holding Moorish heavy arches overhead.  The back bar, as tall as a roof top,  and back lit, featured row upon row of fine Tequilas, vodkas, scotches, gins and liqueurs surrounded by an amber glow.  The  crowd: Mexican and expat.  Prior to going over to the cafe Marie and I had cocktails on the roof top of a 5 star hotel, which opened just a month ago, and watched the sunset painting the city with its brilliance.

So what is San Miguel de Allende (SMA)?  It's a place in Mexico.  It's a state of mind for 5,000 expats.  Its home to 80,000 native and Spanish Mexicans.  It's a snowbird retreat for Canadian and US citizens.  It's a weekend retreat for thousands of weekender dwellers in Mexico City.  It's a UNESCO Heritage site.  In 1929 Mexico bestowed a similar proclamation on it.  Building codes have retained much from the 16th and 17th century.  All Centro district streets are cobblestone with narrow walkways on either side.  Buildings are all painted in muted hues of orange, yellow, tan and sandstone.  Windows and doors are protected by intricate heavy iron grill work.  Most houses seem to have an indoor open air patio... no back or front yards, as do many bars and restaurants.  It is an art colony.  It feels safe, it is very clean.  It is welcoming.  It has the second largest English library on the continent and probably the most active expat volunteers in the world.

Through Marie's friend Lita we have been thrust into the expat community.  A community where women out number men from either 4 -1 or 8 - 1 (from visual experience my belief is that it is closer to 8 -1).  Life of an expat is quite wonderful.  Most restaurants in town not only have English menus they also have in addition to Mexican fare North American food; The Longhorn steak house, Mama Mias Italian, Dominos pizza, McDonalds and even a Starbucks.  Almost every restaurant or bar serves espresso drinks.  There seems to be an event almost every night.  Want something to do, go up to the Jardin (main plaza) meet other friends or listen to Mariaches at night.  For something more intellectual go to the bibliotecha (library) and sit in on a concert, reading or lecture or read a book in the patio.

Today Marie is an SPCA fundraiser luncheon.  This morning we had breakfast in the courtyard of the Instituto de Allende (where all of the expat  art started and flourished) surrounded by art and art students.  Monday we went with a friend of Lita's to a Grotto spa.  A local enterprising family found a spring 10 miles out of town.  The water is naturally heated to wonderfully warm temperature.  There is no sulfur.  They built a stone grotto for swimming with a narrow tunnel which leads to a cave, the source of the spring.  Afterwards we had a late breakfast out on the lawn.

Yesterday I played my second round of golf... with a little more acumen than the first.  My partner... a 94 year old engineer who was one of the chief engineers on the first T-birds, worked for Kaiser and American Motors, for those of you who remember such companies.  His daughter came down her in college 45 years ago and never returned home, except for visits.  He followed her many years back.  Each birthday he takes over the Malequin country club for a day and invites everyone.  Sharp as a tack, friends with everyone, in love with SMA.

Last week we awoke at 5:00 AM and trekked up a hill to meet Jesus de Column.  We walked back down the hill in a crowd of thousands seeing just a few expats.

So what is SMA?  With just a 1/3 of our time here I can only guess what it is for an expat.  It's a feeling of finding a place that is welcoming and secure.  It is a place where people share.  It is a place to feel comfortable with fellow US or Canadian companions while at the same time it is an adventure.   For the expat it is all the activities of a large city compressed into  a population of 5,000.    I'm sure there is much more, but I will save it for a later time.